KARAKORUM

The K-2 Mount Godwin Austen
The first time in 1902 a European climbing expedition led by Englishman Eckenstein climbed k-2 up to 6600 meters. Seven years later it was time for the Duke of Abruzzi's large expedition to Karakorum and K2. Mountain photographer Vittorio Sella took a lot of fabulous and legendary photos. To start with, they tried to reach up through the South East Ridge (that later was named after the Duke). Later, the expedition made an attempt to climb K2's guardian in the west, the 7,544 meter high Skyang Kangri, but a giant gorge blocked their way at 6,600 meters. However, later on Chogolisa (7,654 meters) the Duke reached 7,500 meters with a resolute attack. This became an absolute high altitude record until 1922 when it was beaten on Everest. In 1938 American expedition led by Charles Houston made an attempt to 7925 meters. Again in 1939 American German Expedition led by Fritz Wiessner climbed very close to 8000 meters. In 1953 when the Americans again headed for K2. The expedition consisted of eight men, including the veterans Houston and Bates (from the 1938 expedition), Tony Streather (who had been with the Norwegians on Tirich Mir in 1950) and George Bell famous climber. All of all eight climbers reached an altitude of 7750 meters, but a snowstorm again started and the stuck at camp VIII for more than week and decided to descend.

The Climb
1953 Italian Professor Ardito Desio and Mario Puchoz researched for the possible routes up K2. They probed the terrain up to 6,000 meters and made a lot of observations. When Desio got home, he made the final plans to reach the summit. In 1954 Italian Expedition led by Professor Desio successfully scaled the 2^nd highest on July 31^st 1954 on Abruzzi spur. The ascenders were Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni.

K-2 (Chogori)
Locally the K-2 is known as Chogori, meaning the king of mountains. Really it is standing like a king in the heart of Karakorum Range. Since the existence of Pakistan more than well-equipped expeditions mostly from Europe and Japan, have this far flung region. Several scientific and research parties have also carried out extensive work open the Fauna, flora and hidden minerals of the area. This expedition was accompanied by Prof. Ardit Desio, a renown personality in the realm of mountaineering who latter led the 1954 successful expedition to the worlds second peak K2.

After having dealt the historical and other physical aspects of the Karakorum it would be worthwhile to mention about the region in which it is situated this longest range of the high mountains. This area comprises of two the then agencies of Northern Areas---Gilgit and Baltistan famous for some of the most beautiful valleys of the world.

K2, also Mount Godwin Austen, mountain peak in the Karakorum Range of the western Himalayas, straddling the border between China and Jammu and Kashmir, a territory claimed by India and Pakistan. Pakistan currently controls the portion where K2 lies. K2, rising 8611 m (28,251 ft), is the second tallest mountain in the world. Only Mount Everest (8848 m/29,028 ft), in the Himalayas, is taller. K2 is an almost regular cone of ice and limestone resting on a granite base. In 1856 T.G. Montgomery of the Survey of India measured the mountain and named it "K2" to denote it as one of 35 summits in the Karakorum Range. In 1861 the peak was unofficially renamed Mount Godwin Austen, after British soldier and topographer Henry Habersham Godwin Austen, the second European to visit the area. Several local names, including Chogori, Lambha Pahar, Dap sang, and Kechu (K2), are also used to identify the peak Eight expeditions to K2 were made between 1892 and 1954. On July 31, 1954, Achille Compagnoni and Lino Lacedelli, two members of an Italian expedition led by Ardito Desio, made the first successful ascent to the mountain's summit.

K-2 CONCORDIA TREK
Climbing Expedition period 60- 90 days. (Starting from 15^th June to 15^th September)
Trekking period 21 - 22 days. (The best season starts from June to September ).
 

CONCORDIA K-2 WITH GONDOGHORO - LA
ISLAMABAD TO ISLAMABAD (TOTAL DAYS 24)

In 1968 a trekking route was established that connects the Baltoro Glacier to the Hushe Valley over a pass called the Gondoghoro La (5600 m) Since then the challenging pass has attracted the trackers and climbers alike. This route enables you to avoid retracing your step down the Baltoro Glacier and the pass is one of the most overwhelming mountain panoramas any where in the world, with four of the five 80,000 m peaks of Pakistan closed at hand. Gondoghoro La though popular with trackers, involves 4^th class climbing. The north side 50 degree snow slope where three pitches must be fixed.

The south side is a continuous 50 degree slope where up to 300 m of rope must be fixed. This high technical pass requires good judgment, commitment, fitness, prior acclimatization, and basic mountaineering skills of all members of a trekking party. In addition to proper equipment, wearing helmet is prudent Parties cross both the directions. The south side of Gondoghoro La is extremely long, with avalanche and rock-fall danger once the sun softens the snow. Therefore, parties must on the top of the Gondoghoro La at sun rise to avoid these dangers.

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BALTORO CONCORDIA K2 TREK  (21 Days)

The trek from Skardu to the Baltoro Glacier gives the best close-up views of K2, and the trail along the Braldu and Biaho rivers takes hikers right into the heart of the Karakoram Mountains. The early part of the trek passes through green orchards, and summer visitors will be able to sample apples, apricots, peaches and cherries along the way. The terrain soon becomes rugged, however, and trekkers should be prepared to navigate trails covered with sharp stones and punctuated by glacial streams and steep gullies. The dark stone of the lower peaks provides a dramatic contrast to the glittering snow-capped peaks in the distance. Concordia, the base camp for K2 expeditions, offers spectacular views of some of the highest mountains on Earth, including K2, Gasherbrum, Masherbrum, and Chogolisa.

HUSHE VALLEY / MASHERBRUM WITH GONDOGHORO PEAK (20 Days)

The beautiful Hushe Valley is situated in the District of Khaplu 103 km. away from Skardu the central city of Baltistan. Khaplu has many valleys i.e. Saltoro, Kondus Siachen, but the Hushe valley is the most beautiful. There is a carved wooden and old beautiful mosque named Chakh Chang supposedly the oldest mosque in Baltistan. The valley runs from Masherbrum Mountain (7,821 m), the 24^th highest peak in the world. The beautiful peak of the world the Laila Peak stands here near Masherbrum Mountain.

Gondoghoro Peak
The Gondoghoro peak is a comparatively easy climb of six to eight hours up and three hours down. No. permit is needed, but it is recommended only for those with some climbing experience, as crampons and ice axes are essential. Set off at 1 am in order to back before 10 am. When the snow gets too soft. From the top are views of Masherbrum, Gasherbrum 1 ( Hidden Peak ), Chogolisa, part of Broad Peak, Mitre Peak and Gasherbrum IV.



 

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BIAFO GLACIER OVER HISPAR PASS TO NAGAR AND HUNZA
(TOTAL DAYS 24)

It connects Baltistan to Nagar and Hunza valleys by crossing the Hispar Pass. During this trek you can see the incredible expanse of ice and rock known as Snow Lake. The views across this area are unbelievable with a sea of whiteness stretching into a long distance, surrounded by the jagged peaks of the central Karakorum. It is suitable and best spot for skiing the suitable season is March and April. You will have to adapted the same route up to Askole as usually used for Concordia K-2 trek.

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BIAFO HISPAR LA & SNOW LAKE TREK (23 Days)

Truly one of the most remote treks in the mountains. You do not expect to see many people in this remote wilderness. Here you have a true rendezvous with Nature in its purest form. For the first forty years of this century explores believed that Snow Lake was an ice-cap, from which glaciers flow in all directions. Its size was estimated at 777 sq. kilometers. The current estimated size of Snow Lake is 77 sq. km. The name Snow Lake was given by Martin Conway in 1892, who has given dramatic account of this place in his book ‘Climbing expeditions in Karakoram - Himalayas’. Eric Shipton in 1937 had estimated the present size of Snow Lake.

As we trek up to this other-worldly place we enter a remarkable wilderness of ice, rock and sky - occasionally intercepted by small ablation valleys filled with numerous wild flowers. We undertake a 122 km walk on Biafo & Hispar glaciers, and explore the incredible wilderness of Snow Lake situated between the two glaciers. As we finish our trek we descend down to Hunza Valley and travel overland on Karakoram Highway to Islamabad.

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SHIMSHAL - KHUNJERAB - KUKSEL TREK SHIMSHAL
The 60 km trek from PASSU to Shimshal village follows the polished sandstone of the Shimshal River gorge due east from the Hunza River. Shimshal is the oldest of the Wakhi-speaking villages in Gojal. Established over 400 years ago, the 1200 residents maintain customs no longer practiced in other villages. Their large herds of yaks, sheep, and goats roam the high rolling summer grasslands of the Pamir, on the divide between South Asia and Central Asia. They also have large herds in Khunjerab and Lupgar. In the centuries prior to 1947, when the Hunza Mir's ruled Gojal, the Mir occasionally punished Hunza men to remote Shimshal. The notorious Hunza raids on the Leh- Yarkand caravan route were conducted from the Shimshal Pamir. Shimshal was closed to outsiders until 1986. Since then, only handfuls of foreigners have made the trek each year. Shimshal high pastures are right in the middle of the Khunjerab National Park (KNP). The KNP has been a bone of contention between Shimshal and the government since its establishment in 1975. Some Shimshalis view it as an opportunities for economic development; others view it as a vehicle through which the government could seize control of the Pamir and so threaten Shimshallis survival. The government has agreed to leave the Shimshal area out of the KNP management jurisdiction until the Shimshalis agree to accept the park. You can make short side treks to the pastures along the Lupgar or Momhil glaciers. Beyond Shimshal Village, you can trek to pastures areas along the Yazghil, Khurdopin and Virjerab glaciers. The heavily crevassed East Khurdopin Glacier leads to the difficult Khurdopin Pass and snow lake. You need a guide to show you the way across the Yazghil Glacier and beyond Shimshal Village is the starting point for longer treks to the Pamir and Khunjerab.

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THE GREAT KARAKORUM TRAVERSE
Hispar Biafo Baltoro Gondoghoro La/Hushe Trek (34 Days)

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RUSH LAKE / RUSH PEAK TREK


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MINAPIN (NAGAR) AND BATURA (Hunza) TREK (21 DAYS)

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THALLEY LA TREK  (13 Days)

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